Introducing Haebangchon- the new hipster hangout in Seoul

Have you been to Seoul a couple of times and have already ran out of places to explore? Or are you the type of traveller who prefers a more ‘authentic’ local experience and tend to avoid touristy places? If so, you are at the right place! In this post, I will be sharing about Haebangchon, the new hipster hangout in Seoul.

Unknown to many tourists, I would say that Haebangchon is the new up and coming trendy place to hangout in Seoul. Haebangchon, which also means ‘Liberation Village’ in korean, is located south of Namsan Tower and near Itaewon area. In the past, during the Japanese colonial rule, a military shooting range was housed there. However, after Korea gained independence, the Americans took control of the area, albeit loosely. Thus, those displaced by the Korean War took the opportunity to seek refuge and settle down in Haebangchon.

From rjkoehler.tumblr.com

Before urban regeneration projects in 2010, Haebangchon was a poor shanty town. However, attracted by the low rent and the exciting synergy of the old overlapping the new, many business owners took the opportunity and opened their own cafes, bars, restaurants, workshops, book stores and other interesting boutiques in Haebangchon.

My first visit to Haebangchon was during a cold late Winter afternoon in 2017. It happened that I had 1.5 days layover in Seoul during my flight pattern then and I managed to convince my Korean friend to accompany me to Haebangchon. I remembered braving the cold and walking a long way up the steep slopes!

On the way to Haebangchon, before the steep slopes!

By the time we arrived at the ‘Storage bookstore’, the skies had already turned dark. I did not have much time to hang around the area then but I managed to take a quick snap outside the bookstore!

Storage bookstore at Haebangchon.
Aha, the exact date of the visit was on a Thursday, 23 of November 2017!

Luckily, I had another chance to explore Haebangchon last year! This time, the spring weather was a tad too warm for my liking but nonetheless, the longer days allowed me more time to explore the hood proper:) Together with a fellow Taiwanese book lover who attended the Sogang Korea language course, we first made our way to ‘Byeol chaek bu rok’ bookstore.

‘Byeol chaek bu rok’ book store

There were many interesting books by local authors and designers but with our proficiency in the Korean language back then, we preferred picture books that were easy to read haha!

I have always thought that Koreans have an eye for design and art- I thoroughly enjoyed my time flipping through the pages!:) I also cannot wait to be more proficient in the language! A whole new world of prose and poetry awaits!

Sneak peek!

Wanting to check out other bookstores before deciding on our purchase, we moved on to another bookstore. This bookstore is called ‘Goyo sorsa’ and it can be translated to ‘calm narrative’. This particular bookstore definitely had a zen vibe to it and I love how the sunlight streamed through the windows during late afternoon.

The entrance of ‘Goyo sorsa’ bookstore
The interior of the indie bookstore

After our visit to the bookstores, we continued climbing up the streets, passing by pretty cafes before chancing upon an eclectic enclave of shops! Among those were an old arcade (which I believe was the drama filming site of ‘When the Camellia blooms’, featuring Gong Hyo Jin), more cafes, and various restaurants which sold international cuisine! I also remembered vividly that there was a Thai restaurant with a full crowd!

An inconspicuous shop arcade- but if you look a little closer, you will be surprised!
Time travel back to the 80s in this vintage game arcade!
Welcome to ‘Le Montblanc’, a yarn theme cafe that sells the cutest cakes!
‘Luftballon’ cafe!
‘The space filled with you’- A letter cafe!
Perhaps a video will help to visualise the arcade shop area a bit better!

Have I enticed you enough to drop by Haebangchon the next time you visit Korea?:)

If so, here are a few tips to make your trip even more enjoyable:

  • Be prepared to climb steep slopes, wear comfortable shoes!
  • The sunset is worth staying for!
  • Apart from books, the bookstores sell many unique merchandise too! Do check them out too!

I hope you will find joy in exploring Haebangchon as much as I did!

PS: In case if you are wondering what books I have gotten, here is an ‘in jung’ shot (snapshot of proof) hahaha!

Books that I had bought from ‘Byul chaek bu rok’ bookstore

The purple book was written by a guesthouse owner and consisted of questions about travel. The best part of it? The questions were written in both Korean and English- Yay to that!

The other book is a lot tougher to read because the pages are filled with abstract Korean poems. I am a big fan of English poems but to fully appreciate Korean poems will require a lot more studying of the language. Nonetheless, I bought it with the aim of being able to appreciate and understand Korean poems someday:)

Missing spring in Korea 2019

With the widespread of Covid-19 virus worldwide, many people are now working from home and travelling is almost impossible these days. My heart goes out to everyone affected in one way or another by the virus, especially the healthcare workers and service providers who are working exceptionally hard during this crucial time. I pray for the situation to be under control soon and for everyone to have faith, strength and be in good health to overcome these tumultuous times.

How different are things just a year ago though! Back then, I just began my life in Korea and was all excited about experiencing the different seasons! However, as of now, like most people around the world, I am spending a lot of time at home. As I sit around my home, allow me to reminisce and share about the better and happier times back then. And perhaps to spread some positive spring vibes! Presenting to you, Spring in Korea, 2019!:)

While Spring flowers were in full bloom, a couple of friends and I took a weekend trip to Jinhae to experience the Gunhangjae festival. Gunhangjae actually means military performance in Korean and this annual festival is held in Jinhae, is a small town where the Korea Naval Academy is located. During Spring, many people gather in Jinhae to catch sight of the flowers and attend the Naval parade.

The Navy marching towards the stadium for their annual parade

Apart from the Naval parade, we explored 2 famous sight seeing locations, namely the Yeojwacheon river area and the Gyeonghwayeok area.

Yeojwacheon River area:

The Yeojwacheon river area is famous for its colourful decorations specially done up along the river for the Spring festival. There were also many snack and souvenir stalls around the area that opened till late at night.

Together with many other Korean family and friends, my friends and I strolled down the streets. Occasionally, with the passing gentle breeze, pink petals fell like snowflakes. Lovers held hands and captured beautiful memories. Kids prance around in delight, indulging in cherry blossom flavoured snacks and chicken skewers! Ahjummas and Ahjusshis dressed in their hiking gear enjoying their stroll. *Warmth and love filled the air* hahaha!:)

Colourful umbrellas filled the
Yeojwacheon river
Like a scene right out of a romantic movie!
Cherry blossom flavoured ice cream!

Despite not being a fan of crowds, the amazing weather and the lively atmosphere made up for it!- but to really beat the crowd, head out early in the morning! The less harsh sunlight in the morning helps to reduce shadows in photographs too!

Film<3

Gyeonghwayeok area:

As for the Gyeonghwayeok area, it used to be a railway station but is no longer operational today. However, the area continued to draw crowds as many people gathered to take photos with the iconic Korail train.

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The vintage looking train at Gyeonghwayeok

My friends and I arrived at late noon, hoping to take nice shots during the golden hour. To be honest, it was a little tough to get a shot without getting photo bombed hahaha! Nonetheless, we did our best and I must say that the photos turned out better than expected. Oh yeah, if you are planning to explore this area next time, do remember to wear comfortable shoes. Because of the train tracks and the ground filled with stones, the uneven terrain made it a little hard to walk, especially for those wearing heels.

Right on track!:)
Family time!<3

It was a short but fun filled trip filled with laughter, food and tons of photographs! Ah, how I miss the weather, the sights, the sounds, and the whole ambience! I was told that Spring festivals around Korea is cancelled this year though. Nonetheless, it is better to stay away from crowded places these days. Till the situation improves, take care, stay safe and stay healthy in mind, body and spirit!

The 2019 Annual Autumn School Festival

If you are thinking of attending Sogang University’s Korean language school, and is someone who enjoys school events, I would highly recommend you to attend the autumn semester! Although every semester is a whole new experience altogether- be it enjoying the cherry blossom in Spring, the beaches and water sports in Summer, the red and golden foliage in Autumn, or witnessing the first snowfall in Winter, the annual autumn school festival definitely makes the autumn semester even more exciting! It was a fun day filled with food, activities and lucky draw! Depending on your class or teacher, you might even have a chance to set up your own booth!

For my case, our teacher suggested that we should take up a booth. Initially, we were not exactly enthusiastic about it because much planning and work had to be done. However, I am glad that we took up the challenge! It made my last semester in Sogang University much more memorable and helped bring the class closer:)

Our class’s booth: 대태차! We sold Taiwanese herbal tea eggs (대만 차예단) and Thai ice tea (태국 밀크티) Hence the name of the stall!
What we sold during the festival!
Students enjoying the warm autumn sun!
A glimpse of the autumn school festival!

It was an amazing experience and I do hope that those who have plans to study Korean at Sogang University will be able to experience it first hand!:)

Studying Korean at Sogang University

Why did I choose to study Korean in Korea?

Personally, it was something that I have always wanted since I was in university. I took up a semester of Korean language classes when I was studying at the National University of Singapore and have always wanted to be on the student exchange programme to Korea. Nonetheless, I was not able to do so then and have always wanted to experience living abroad in Korea.

As such, I decided to work and save up to do my very own ‘student exchange’, albeit a little late. Furthermore, I feel that learning Korean in Korea allows me more exposure to the language and I have more opportunities to practise the language. However, that being said, it is still up to the individual to converse in Korean. This is especially so if there are friends around you who speak your native language. 

Why Sogang University?

My main objective of learning Korean in Korea is to be able to hold a conversation with Koreans. In the past, when interacting with Koreans, I always felt lacking when I was not able to communicate with them in Korean. Despite having learnt Korean before, I was still unable to express my thoughts well in Korean. As such, rather than writing/ reading, I decided to focus more on speaking and listening- hence my decision to enroll in Sogang University’s Korean Language Programme.

Here’s a quick overview of the lesson format that I have gone through (from Level 1-3; I was told that from Level 4 onwards it is slightly different).

9 – 9:50am: Writing 

9:50 – 10am: 10 min Break

10 – 10:50am: Speaking

10:50 – 11:10am: 20 min Break

11:10 – 12pm: Speaking

12 – 12:10pm: 10 min Break

12:10 – 1pm: Listening

As you can see, Sogang University’s curriculum places emphasis on speaking and even during the midterms and finals, there is an interview component. Much of the content in their textbooks consist of everyday dialogues and I thought that it was very applicable to my daily conversations in korea. 

In fact, from what I have heard from the teachers, there are students with TOPIK level 5 who are deemed to be unable to speak Korean well and placed in Level 1 or 2 after taking the placement test. From this, you can see how much emphasis Sogang University places on speaking- and that is the very reason why I chose them:)

However, depending on your learning objectives, there are other language courses by the other universities or even language institutions (Hakwons).

I know other students have opted for Korean language programme that focuses more on preparation for academic learning because upon completing their Korean language studies,  they wish to move on to undergraduate studies in a Korean University.

I hope that this sharing is useful to those considering to take a leap of faith to study Korean in Korea, particularly at Sogang University.

*Oh yeah, if you are someone who enjoys school events, I would highly recommend you to attend the autumn semester! The annual school festival for language students is held in autumn and it was definitely a fun day filled with food and activities! I will share more in my next post!:)

Teacher and classmates from level 3 Korean<3

A new chapter begins… in Korea

Hi everyone, 

In 2019, I left my job as a cabin crew to study the Korean language in Korea. During my 9 months stay, I attended classes at Sogang University on weekdays and usually spend my weekends and vacation exploring different parts of Korea. Along with the passing of seasons, I enjoyed many sights and activities with friends from all around the world.

As such, I have decided to document my experiences here and hope that my sharing will provide insights into living life in Korea. Starting a new life in Korea was indeed challenging and daunting but nonetheless, it was a memorable experience that I will keep close to heart.

If you are keen to find out more about my life in Korea, stay tuned!:)

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